256kms, blue skies

The temperature is sitting stubbornly around 30 degrees, and we are quite thrilled about this. The entire journey we were hoping for warm days, and now they have really arrived.

We had to do a quick pit stop at Katherine, as Jason’s Red Band jandals has been set free in the wild of Katherine Gorge, oops. Whilst carrying his canoe they fell out and we did not realise until we were back at the boat.

Since we left Katherine in the afternoon we were late getting into Kakadu. We had hoped to stop at one of the waterholes for a swim, but time did not allow it. Instead we stopped to do a quick hike up to a lookout. By this time is 34 degrees.

The lookout is right next to the South Alligator River (weird naming as there are no alligators in Australia, other than in zoos etc). In the wet season this river is wild and filled with salt water crocodiles. The signs warn you to be aware and don’t swim in the river.

We make our way down there and find the river is gone, it is a dry, sandy riverbed and no crocodiles to be seen. Even so we are both on high alert, we’ve all seen that movie plot, there’s nothing to be afraid of, come on loosen up, it’s just some fun, CHOMP, dead!!!!

Onwards to the lookout. Despite much of the area being green and lush this particular section looks like it has been bombed. Trees are half burnt, there is no grass or under brush, it is just dry, and hot, and barren, except for this random flower, see photos below, that seem to grow regardless.

We make it to the top in record time, and the view is worth it. We can see where the river is still flowing, with green all around it, then slightly further you can see the smoke from yet another fire.

TANGENT: I am not sure if the fires are purposeful i.e. to reduce the risk of real bushfires, but we had started to see fires still smoldering on the side of the road, and plumes of smoke in the distance. A little disturbing to drive through it like it’s nothing. But no one seemed to be panicking.

We complete the full trek, drink a load of water, and head back to Keem. Boost the air conditioner and continue the journey arriving at Cooinda Lodge just after 400pm. Plenty of time to get set up and settled before sundown.

The lodge has everything you need including petrol pumps, a small store, restaurant, bar, two swimming pools on top of all the usual camping amenities. We are very pleased with our choice.

The only down side, with river comes mosquitos!

I knew there was a reason I packed all that bug spray, and now was the moment to shine. We spray every exposed inch of skin and settle in for the night. The bats are lifting for the night; you can hear the birdlife going bonkers. And, in the distance, the sound of dingoes. Bloody awesome.

We climb into the turtle and sleep.

Kakadu – 11^th June

Well that was a bloody loud night! Turns out the dingoes are not so much in the distance but in the camp, and they love to bark. Bark bark, bark bark, bark bark, bark bark. Jason believes it’s their way of communicating. I believe it’s their way of keeping me awake all night.

I had packed my ear plugs, so out they came and successfully blocked them out. During my usual midnight sojourn to the toilet I heard what sounded like a dog drinking out of a bowl of water. Jason reminded me that we are in a national park, no dogs allowed. I guess dingoes get thirsty too.

I wasn’t afraid, more interested to see what one looked like up close (not too close). Like at nodding distance, not patting distance. But last night they were heard but not seen.

We have a full day in Kakadu, this is our only location where we are here for two nights. A quick visit to reception we are equipped with information on a 12km hike we can do. I queried as to the difficulty of the hike, “really easy, mostly flat with a few rocks to climb over”. Sweeeeet, we should nail that in about three hours.

On our drive out to the hike we pass a living, breathing, beautiful dingo on the side of the road. She had come out to the clearing and watched us before nipping back into the bush. Awesome! I also saw a very long snake, but that was dead and on the road, so not as awesome.

It is 1030 when we arrive at the hike and it is 27 degrees already. We have loads of water, bug spray, sun screen, and snacks! We are ready.

The first part is actually really easy, and then we find the actual walk, the Baark track (not dingo related). The warning at the beginning of this track makes my heart sink.

• 12km
• 6-8 hours
• High level of fitness
• Chance of rock falls

This does not sound like the same track that was explained to me. But, off we go.

Off, and up, and up, and over, and through. You are climbing up the side of the hill, you are climbing over boulders, and you are climbing through bush.

NOW, this is an excellent workout for your legs. Because you do not want to use your arms to pull yourself up. Why? Because a lot of shit here bites you people! Even the plants have nasty spikey bits to get you, if the snakes and crocodiles don’t get you first. So you spend the entire time not touching anything just in case the tree you grabbed is actually a snake, or the rock you hold onto houses a bunch of spiders.

Why do it then Jo? Because it seemed like a good idea at the time.

Plus, my lovely husband loves to climb stuff. He is part mountain goat or something. But climbing things brings him joy. So I shut up and harden up, and we climb. We get quite high and the view is amazing.

We reach the highest point and then continue on, we are now on a plateau walking through long grass, over tree stumps, and around rocks. It’s at this point, 50 minutes in, I pull the pin. This is not fun. I am not enjoying it, I want to go back (I know right, Jo got all sensible and stuff). The temperature is now over 30 degrees.

Just to be sure we walk a little further, but the track does not get any better, and at this rate we will not make it back in time for our sunset cruise amongst the crocodiles. So we turn around and head back the way we came. At this time, we find another couple just behind us who have come to the same conclusion.

We sit, snack, and rehydrate before heading back down the track. With a pit stop to visit a snake we found earlier. He had moved on by now (shame).

Down again, we head to the car. All in all, around 2.5 hours and probably only a quarter of the track. We need a seat, we need water, we need air conditioning.

Next stop, billabong, not the store, the thing. Jason has always wanted to see a billabong in the flesh/or in the water? There is one not so far from where we are now. Down the road we head, and after about 1km we find the billabong. It’s beautiful, peaceful, lots of lily leaves and flowers, huge amount of bird life. Maybe there is a walk we can do around this instead.

Out we get ready to explore. But no, apparently buffalo have been spotted in the area, and like everything else around here, it will kill you. They don’t like being disturbed. Plus, there are crocodiles in these waters too, so don’t go to close to the edge. The walking track is closed due to seasonal changes WTF does that mean? It’s closed because some danger, sharp toothed, short tempered creatures wanna eat you!

I take photos, and I do wonder, why are all these ducks and other birds looking so chilled and relaxed on the water, surely they are crocodile snacks too?

More on that later.

There are so many beautiful walking opportunities around Kakado park I wish we had more time to explore them, but not today.

Back to Keem, we are less than 30kms from Jabiru and feel we should go and check it out. Being this close it would be a shame not to. It takes no time at all to get there, and no time at all to realise there is no reason to stay. Jabiru, it appears, is a great place to get to other places.

Time to head back to Cooinda for a swim, a rest, and a beverage before our cruise.