1st October – Haines
The next stop on our cruise is the town of Haines. Yet another stunning town surrounded by the most picture perfect mountains. Today’s mountains come with a dusting of fresh snow. According to old mate on the pier, this means they have two weeks until Winter really arrives here in Haines and the cold sets in.
It does not seem like an appropriate time to tell him, its fucking freezing mate.
Today’s excursion is a 2 hour hike. There are three of us doing the hike, Jason, myself, and a nice, older chap, called Chris. Chris is a perpetual cruiser (that sounds wrong), he is retired and does between 6 and 8 cruises each year. He is a wealth of knowledge.
Our guides today are Annie and Abby, they are the sweetest creatures. Very chatty and thoughtful. They are both from elsewhere and have been working in Haines for the summer. Abby is off to New Zealand to work as a guide in Abel Tasman. If you come across her, say hi!
Being the helpful kiwis that we are, we gave her the full rundown of all the things you need to know. Most importantly that the sandfly is NOT your friend and a large dose of deet will be required whenever you leave your tent.
I hope she enjoys her time there.
The hike is out to a beach where we can enjoy the views and the snacks that both Annie and Amy have provided for us. Jason was extremely excited about having a coffee, until they realised that they had forgotten the cups. Tooooooo funny.
We don’t see any critters, with the exception of one squirrel, and the bear spray remains unused. Come on bears, we are desperate to see you!!
Normally this hike takes 3 hours, but we are all pretty fit, and it is not overly difficult so we have it all done and dusted within 2 hours. Even with a couple of detours and lots of photography. So the ladies take us for a bus tour of the town, to help us get our bearings.
Haines was the home of Fort William H. Seward, also known as Chilkoot Barracks or Haines Mission, was built in 1902 and played a big role during the Klondike Gold Rush. It was the last of twelve military posts constructed in Alaska during that time. It is now a National Historic Landmark and offers visitors a chance to explore Alaska’s past amidst beautiful scenery, many of the original buildings are now homes and have been repurposed for the town.
They have a very strange 4th of July tradition here called the 4th of July Panty Fly. 99 pairs of white underwear and 1 pair of red underwear are stuffed into a canon.
The locals all place bets, at a cost of $5 each, on how far the red underwear will fly. The winner gets half the takings and the other half goes towards a local charity. Sounds like a riot, I wonder if it is on YouTube anywhere…
We are dropped off in town so we can do a little bit of shopping. Tomorrow we are heading to Hubbard Glacier and it would be great if we could have a pair of binoculars to see up close and look for any cold critters. There is a sports shop and the guy was very helpful, let us take a couple of pairs outside to try them out. Inside the store there is a huge array of taxidermized local animals. All locally hunted. They are huge. There is the usual moose, deer, bears, foxes, but also a mountain lion (nope, don’t like that), and a seal (are you fucking kidding me). Anyway, it is fascinating, you can also pick up a hand gun, rifle, or semi automatic, if you are in the market for one.
We secure our binoculars and head off to the American Bald Eagle Foundation (American Bald Eagle Foundation – American Bald Eagle Foundation (baldeagles.org)). They rescue and take care of injured birds, those that are on display are permanent residents due to their injuries. Mainly damaged or amputated wings. Most of the birds tangled with powerlines or cars, got their wings caught and down they went, people will bring them into the sanctuary where they are cared for, if the bird will fully recover, it is returned to the wild, if not, they stay here and are often used for education purposes.
There are three large, beautiful bald eagles, and a Eurasian Eagle Owl. No, that is not some hybrid species designed by man, but a bird that is normally at home in much of Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. They are gorgeous. Someone had bought it or found it, and now it is “imprinted”, meaning it is attached to humans and would not survive in the wild. It is only 14 weeks old, and it is HUGE. Think of the owls from Harry Potter, but bigger. Just beautiful.
There is also a great museum part to the sanctuary, you pay to get in (they are not for profit and worth the small amount you pay to visit).
We buy a small item from the gift shop, got to support them, and start the walk to dinner. Annie and Abby recommended the Bamboo Room for halibut. Really weird as the name indicates some sort of Asian fare, but that would be completely incorrect. It is a traditional diner with the formica tables and vinyl seats, and the usual menu of burgers, fries, quesadilla, and deep-fried chicken.
Jason gets his halibut fish and chips, we have a couple of beverages and watch the world outside move by. Apparently, the fish is ok, but not as good as The Hanger – not surprising.
Haines is a small town but when there is a cruise ship docked, the streets are rather busy. I wonder if the locals love it or hate it. Probably a bit of both, they need the income but would really love the peace and quiet.
As we walk down the waterfront, we notice a bunch of tourists (because we are locals of course) staring up at the trees and, sure enough, there is a huge bald eagle, hanging out and enjoying the attention. How cool is Alaska?!?!
There is a plant in Alaska that we have heard about from several of our tour guides. It is called Devil’s Club and the indigenous people use it for medicinal purposes. They turn it into tea, a paste, put it in meals, and also create a balm you can rub it on your skin (Clarise) to help with rashes, pain, arthritis, swelling, practically everything. Or so the advertising goes.
My scar has been insanely painful the last couple of weeks, I think all the nerves are beginning to wake up or repair, and everything hurts. Sitting, standing, rubbing, its unpleasant. So, I have decided to buy into the hype and find some of this balm. It surely can’t make it any worse… can it.
We find the local store that has the balm, and I buy a couple of tubs to take with me. I have been using it for a while now, and my scar feels better. No idea if it is the balm or just time. But I will assume, because it suits me, that it is the balm. I still get the occasional stabbing pain that stops me in my tracks, but nothing like it was before.
At this store they also sell fudge, and Jason needs this for medicinal purposes also. We purchase three different flavours to take back on the boat.
Our tour of the town ends at the brewery, Jason has been circling it since we got here, and it is now open. NAME OF THE BREWERY, the beer, apparently is very nice. The views out the back are spectacular, the constant blah, blah, blah of our fellow travellers… not so much.
Having completed two tours of the town, seen everything we want to, filled up on nice food and beer (not me), we amble back to the ship.
Jason is napping so I head up to the Spinnaker bar to write some postcards, I really wanted to get them done asap and sent from Alaska. Over the next hour I watch entitled people come and go from the bar, I watch the bar man manage the behaviour with a smile and a song. He is also the master of accents, which he tries out on every punter. I am amused.
As I sit and write, someone orders a Baileys and Club Soda. WTAF! I had to double take, as did the bar tender, but sure enough, that is what she wanted. I thought I might be sick.
I complete my postcard writing assignment, with enough time left that I can actually go ashore and post them! Which I do. Jason is still resting, and I feel very pious for getting them done. Yay me.
At 430pm we say goodbye to Haines, Alaska. What a beautiful place.
Tonight, we hang out in the bar before heading back to the Sushi restaurant for another delicious dinner.
Tomorrow we are at sea, we are going to view Hubbard Glacier. I wonder what that will be like.
2nd October – Hubbard Glacier – Jesus Wept its Cold
Today we figured out that it is possible to have breakfast without the hordes and madness. We head downstairs to the Seven Seas restaurant. The menu is al a carte, you are seated at tables, they bring you food, it is bliss.
It is possibly the reason why Jason was not arrested at sea. I think if I had taken him back to the trough again, he would have lost it.
They have eggs benedict, his favourite breakfast ever, and he is very happy. They will also allow you to change what is on the menu and are very accommodating. Overtime I figure out I can get more and more vegetables and fruit, which I desperately need.
A lovely session at the gym where we see whales in the distance, how special is that. Not something you usually see as you slog it out on the treadmill. It was amazing.
We head up to the Spinnaker Bar, which will be the main location for most people wanting to head out onto the viewing deck when we get close to the glacier. Now it is raining and cloudy, we wonder if we will see anything at all.
Due to the weather and slightly choppy seas, we are delayed getting to the glacier, but you would hardly know as we sit, sip drinks, eat a DELICIOUS salmon chowder, and listen to music. The bar fills and fills with anticipation of the glacier.
We are lucky, we have a seat, and a table. I can write and have a place to put my cocktail, and Jason can wander about and have a home base for his beer. Then we start to get close.
We laugh at couples who are wearing matching outfits, jackets, shoes. Until we realise that we are matching, thanks to Krys and David who lent us their super-duper warm jackets. Jason says it doesn’t count because ours are black. I will take it.
You can see the glacier looming in the distance, we start travelling past large clumps of ice in the water. I can only assume there was nothing big enough to tear a hole in the boat. As we get closer more and more people appear and start going outside to view the glacier. The rain is still coming, its very cold, and one stupid woman decides to take an umbrella outside. For the love of all things sensible 1. Its windy out there; 2. Think of other people you selfish twat. The twat in question did not last long and waddles her way back inside.
We step outside as the ship gets closer and its just breathtaking. The photos and my ramblings do not do it justice. The colour and magnitude of the glacier is heart stopping, occasionally you hear the crack and boom of pieces falling into the sea. Unlike most other glaciers, Hubbard Glacier is growing and growing fast. Pushing its way into the sea. I hope this is a good sign that the planet is not completely fucked.
It is pouring, off and on, but we are warm, even though we are in shorts. The warm jackets, hats, and gloves make a difference. Until my feet get wet, damn it, then it is just cold toes. Brrr.
As with every tour there are view hogs, blocking others from seeing the glacier or getting a photo, it winds me up. Deep breath, not my circus, not my monkeys. Assholes! We are lucky though, both of us are reasonably tall and can see lots. Also, we have pretty good constitutions when it comes to the cold so, even though we are both in shorts, we stay out for some time and get some great shots when the crowd thins.
The captain was brilliant, he circled and circled, even when we went down to our cabin, we could stand on our balcony and get a good view. We are lucky, we are blessed.
It is time to defrost and head up to the specialty Mexican restaurant for dinner.
Yet again we are impressed with the service. Even though we feel the cruise and the boat are not what we had hoped, we cannot fault the enthusiasm and care of the staff. They are wonderful, as we start to see the same faces around the place, we become known as J and J. Too funny.
Its amazing how a little thought and care can make a difference, no big surprise really!!! As we speak to each person we interact with we get to know them, there are so many from the Philippines so I practice all my phrases from our visit last year. They love it, a wee touch of home, and the fact that we went there!!!
A lovely day and evening, time to sleep.
The clocks go back or forward or something!!! This happens every few days so it’s a touch confusing.
Sitka – 3rd October – Forever a place in my heart
We had sorted out an agenda for today.
Get up, go to the gym, have breakfast, and hit land for our tour.
But the time change royally fucked that. Instead we skip breakfast and head out to the tour. I pack snacks because I know it will not be good for anyone if we both get hungry/hangry.
As we wait for the ok to disembark, we notice a man on a scooter, one of the old people scooters you see around retirement villages (and cruises), with his suitcases and, oddly enough, a skateboard strapped to the front. This chap is not old… but does have one leg, below the knee, amputated and has a prosthetic. He is accompanied by two ship security guards, and they are the first to disembark. Turns out, this guy is a bit of an asshole. Or a lot of an asshole, very drunk, throwing up in the hallways, falling on people, and then skateboarding on the deck (I actually would have liked to have seen this), so he is being escorted from the ship. Later mate, find your own way home!
Dumb ass.
Sitka is the largest city in the United States by size, at 4800sm. However, by population, they don’t even make the top 100.
We make it to the excursion in time, unlike some who were left behind. We end up sitting next to a very delightful young woman called Willow. She was doing the excursion on her own so we hung out a bit.
The excursion is on a reasonably smaller boat, so not too many people and the crew are very cool. The tour guide has a full set of terrible jokes, the captain is very knowledgeable, and the deck hand did not fall overboard. Excellent.
This excursion is called Otters, Eagles, and Bears Oh MY! We are to go looking for sea otters and bald eagles, then, after the boat tour, we are transferred to a bus where we will go to a rescued bear sanctuary. Sounds like fun.
The sun is shining, there are only a few clouds in the sky, we have really lucked out.
Within minutes of setting out, we see whales, its like they were waiting for us to join them. Really showing off and looking spectacular. They were not even on the viewing menu for today! We head over to a little bay where bald eagles are often sighted, sure enough, there were lots. Including one who had recently caught herself of a lovely big fish and was having breakfast, sorry for the interruption.
It is cold on this boat, I have seven layers on, and still my toes are cold! Suck it up, get the views. It is worth it.
The otters are a little harder to come by, they are not as flashy or outgoing as the seals and whales, but we do see them, wallowing about and putting their cute little tails in the air.
Our captain who, I have to say, sounds just like Dolly Parton, says she will swing by a salmon catchment, as there are often bears in this area. Sounds great to us. We all scan the waterline looking hopefully. Is that a bear? Nope, a stump, a log, a shadow. And then……
A BEAR! An actual bear, swimming along, playing in the water, looking for fish, completely oblivious, or does not give a shit, to the fact that we are here. Then, ANOTHER BEAR. Two bears, one on the outside of the catchment (dumb bear) and one on the inside of the catchment, with a meal of fresh salmon (smart bear).
They are Sitka Coastal Brown Bears and they are freaking adorable. I just want to give them a snug, not wise though. Not wise at all. Keep your hands to yourself.
We watch the bears for a while, it is incredibly special and a big step up from the black bear doing a runner up the street in Juneau.
How good is this!
Its time to head back to the mainland. Past the giant sea lions lazing on the bouy and catching some rays. Past the whales and otters. This has to be the best tour ever. We came here to see the wildlife and see it we did!
Back on land we are heading off to the Fortress of the Bear. This seems a little senseless having seen some in the wild, but no, it was really great. And what a story. Apparently, in the past, if a mumma bear was killed they euthanised any baby bears because there were no facilities to take care of them. That is just unthinkable.
One person wanted to open a facility to take in these babies and keep them safe!
It took years and more hoops than an Olympic hula hooper (imagine that as an Olympic sport). But eventually they got there. They currently have 6 bears. 4 brown bears and 2 black bears and they are just goofy. Especially the brown bears, playing and lolling about. We named one Harri, she just seemed a bit confused by life and completely incompetent. Not sure why we chose that name.
By chance we met the man that started it, he was very reserved and all about the bears. What a guy. Fortress of the Bear
Next stop, Alaska Raptor Center! No, not the raptures from the Jurassic movies, those are raptors. Quite different, though they can be very deadly.
Like the facility in Haines, the Raptor Center take in injured and abandoned birds. They have an amazing facility for rehabilitation, you can watch them through one way glass (so they don’t get used to humans), where they fly and get their strength back. Its impressive. When they can fly to and balance on the highest rope, they are ready to go back to the wild. Alaska Raptor Center – Rehabilitation. Education. Research.
There are also those who cannot return to the wild due to their injuries. These have wonderful environments where they can hang outside, no nets, no cages, just sunshine and freedom, and a safe place to sleep at night where predators cannot get them. An amazing facility.
We do a little bush walk down to the river, there are salmon skeletons everywhere. It looks bad and smells worse. In a movie we would look around, see the skeletons just a moment too late, before some unknown creature swoops down and has us for lunch. In this case, we just gag at the smell, look at the remains, and head back. Apparently a lot of birds and bears hunt salmon here.
Our tour is complete! What a fabulous time. By far the best excursion we have done so far. I cannot imagine anything topping it, all this before lunch. Speaking of which, the driver drops us in town and we head to Beak Restaurant for some much needed food. Noting that all we have had today is a muesli bar and some wasabi peas! Probably a good thing as we have been over indulging.
This restaurant focuses on creating an inclusive environment, sustainability, and utilising local produce. The staff were very sincere and lovely. The food is ok, and they refuse to accept tips. Any tips that are left will be donated to charity.
After lunch we explore town, which takes about 35 minutes, tops. Then it is time to head back to the ship. As we line up for the bus there are two dogs just BEGGING for pats. I had to oblige. According to their mum, they would happily come home with me.
We find a lovely seat to sit and watch as we depart Sitka.
Dinner is at Seven Seas tonight and our lovely Filipino friends welcome us. It is busy so we share a table with Kiwis and Aussies, of course.
A nice meal, a night cap, a happy day.
WE SAW BEARS! IN THE WILD.
Icy Strait Point – 4th October – They were not wrong
OMG the 4th of October, time is zipping by so quickly. I mean it feels like only yesterday we boarded this ship and I was complaining about it. Don’t get me wrong, I am still sad that its not what we had expected, but the excursions, the experiences, and the staff are so good. We have seen everything we could have hoped for. With the exception of an Elk. But that was never really high on the list – well, my list anyway.
Up for breakfast, our lovely hostesses arrange us a table by the window. As we eat we see a bald eagle swoop in, grab a fish and fly off to have its own breakfast. Gold.
Icy Strait Point is located in the town of Hoonah on Chichagof Island. The population is 946, approximately. I mean at any time one might arrive and one might leave.
Today’s excursion is whale watching and bear searching. Sounds great. We are due to spend three hours out at sea looking for different whales, and then 2 hours doing a bear search. I am not quite sure what that entails, but I am also super stoked that we got to see bears yesterday!
We board a much bigger whale watching boat than we did at Sitka. So many more people including the notorious platform hogs. Renowned for taking space and not sharing with anyone, unfortunately they behave the same way today. Meh, fuck em.
It’s a bit slow going, at least 45 minutes before we even see a spout of water.
Now, I need to tell you what that spout of water is. When whales dive under water, they don’t exactly take a big drink of water that gets blown out. Instead this is the water that sits on top of the blow hole. Around 1-2 cups of water, it looks like so much more. Also, it includes anything that has accumulated in their blow hole, think… whale snot. So when they blow that out, they are, essentially, blowing their nose.
From all accounts it smells bad and tastes worst. It all comes down to be in the wrong place at the wrong time, I am somewhat pleased I have not had that experience!
Then it all happens. Whales start appearing and they are putting on quite the show. I am desperate to get a good photo of a whale tail, but I am slow or misstep, or they are just playing hard to get.
Regardless, I am spending my day chasing tail. That feels wrong.
Jason got a great video when we were following mum and baby along, they both dove under, and he captured both their tails. Well, done!
Then a pod of orca whales turns up. How freaking cool is that. You can tell by their dorsal fines. They are very different to the humpback whales we have been seeing. If you use binoculars you can see a lot of white on their backs. We follow them for some time, seeing their fins as they sail along.
Before you know it we have seen dozens of whales and it is time to head back to shore, to top things off a group of dall’s porpoise. I had erroneously been using the term dolphin. But apparently these are different things. There is a whole list of differences you can search, but I won’t bore you with them here.
These dalls turn up, doing jumps and tricks along the side of the boat. Its like they were all timed and choreographed, and we got to see the best of them.
Back at the dock we are ready for round two, going on a bear hunt. It takes some puzzle solving to figure out where we are meant to meet. But with tickets in hand, I ask a nice bystander who points us in the right direction.
We are early, our tour is at 1130 and its only 1050, we sit and wait. Having a little snack out of my bag to keep us going. This part of the tour is meant to take around 2 hours, leaving us with less than an hour to see anything else before we must be on board.
Finally, it’s our time. The bus arrives and ever man and his ancient dog push in front of us. MY GOD I am tired of these old fucks and their lack of manners. Everyone carries on about young people and their sense of entitlement. But whoever said that has never been on a cruise with these wankers.
I wave them through, openly telling them how manners are clearly optional. Not one of them giving it a second thought. Covid, I have a visitors list for you.
We are all on the bus and it turns out there are not enough seats. The tour has been over booked. The driver, Ginger (red hair, not a lot of teeth) is trying to get hold of the head office, trying to figure out what has gone wrong, and getting nowhere. We sit and we wait.
Jason and I did a quick convo, we saw bears yesterday, the tour before this saw none, we could end up sitting here for another hour whilst they figure it out, lets just seed the seat and go do our own thing.
Ginger is super appreciative, takes us to the lead of her team, who is also appreciative but states “I can’t do anything for them”. We smile nicely, tell them we will speak to the people on the boat, and go our own way.
Instead, we do the lovely, short walk around to the centre of town, now that is a stretch, this place is TINY! The centre of town includes a couple of restaurants, a museum, a gift shop, and gondola that takes people from the dock to the town. 5 minutes by gondola or a 20-minute walk.
In winter, this all shuts down except for the few locals who have little cabins by the water. I bet they cannot wait for us to leave. As the boardwalk is right outside their doors.
We had a very enjoyable dinner at The Smokehouse on Duck Point. The food was really good, and we start talking to a couple of guys from our ship. They are delightful and really enjoyable to chat with. By the time we finish up we get back to the ship with 30 minutes to spare.
A quick change, removing about 4 layers, and head to the usual spot for a drink and watch the us leave. We speak to a couple who were on the Bear Search, apparently they did see a bear! By the sounds of it, the best part about the tour was the Bear Guide, who would walk them along the track, talking about what to look for and carrying a revolver for safety. Nevermind, we saw bears and we were very lucky.
I wonder if he also carried bear spray? You would think a revolver would do the trick.
Today’s tip. If you are looking at bear shit, it is easy to tell the males from the females. Males tend to walk and poo at the same time. Females will stop, poo, then move on. Meaning the males poo is all spread out, the females, however, have their shit together. Funny and true.
Tonight’s dinner is at a Brazilian BBQ. Where the meat is endless. Ironically, this is the only night that Jason decides to eat vegetables! The first few rounds of meat were amazing, but it feels like they lured us in with that, and then kept bringing the cheap cuts. It was quite disappointing, especially at over $100 each.
Retiring to bed, we are exhausted. The ship is rocking and rolling a lot. It’s the first time something has fallen off a shelf and the outdoor furniture is moving about. It’s the perfect way to be put to sleep!
Tomorrow we have our final Alaskan stop at Ketchikan. I am really looking forward to this.
5th October – Ketchikan? Ketchikant!
After a lovely rolling night of waves I feel like I had a great sleep.
Only one thing fell off the shelf and the outdoor furniture is still on the deck, even though it has moved about a bit.
We are meant to dock at 700am, however, at 630am we are still barrelling along and I feel like we are going in the wrong direction. Hmmmm.
At 800am the captain comes on the intercom. It is HIGHLY unusual for any announcements to be in your room. They will be made in public areas, so we knew this must be important.
Apparently, due to the weather it was not safe to dock in Ketchikan so that has been abandoned. We are heading straight to Victoria, BC, which was meant to be our last stop. Damn it!
To be fair we have been incredibly lucky with the weather. Other ships had missed out on so much more, we cannot really complain. Instead we plan our day at sea, we will not dock until we reach Victoria on the 6th at 830pm, I secretly hope we will be there early.
I am getting sick again, I can feel it in my chest and I am starting to cough. ARGH!
Probably a good thing that we spend the day doing very little, a quick trip to the gym. Lunch at the Seven Seas with another lovely window seat. We are seated near an older couple from Coffs Harbour, too funny. They were delightful and we had a great chat.
We were talking about how wonderful the staff are and there is only one person on the ship that seems to struggle with smiling or being pleasant. Jason refers to him as Mr Cranky Pants, before we could even finish the sentence, William states “the barman”! His reputation precedes him!
Our entire day seems to revolve around food, drinking, and lazing about. It’s almost like we are on holiday!!
Tonight’s dinner we are heading back to Le Bistro, our favourite restaurant so far.
Digression: when we ate at one of the specialty restaurants I ordered a bottle of wine. I thought we were not allowed to take it back to our room (don’t get me started) and was accepting of that. At the end of the meal though, the server said “here, you paid for this you take it with you”. Oh cool. So we did.
Then when we were at lunch I ordered a lovely rose. Did not finish it and said, I would take it back to my room. The server smiled nicely, and dried off the bottle for me to take with us. No issue.
Tonight at Le Bistro there was a little bit of wine left, probably around 1/3 of a bottle. I said to the server we would like to take it back to the room. He said we could not, we could fill up our glasses and take those back to our room, but not the bottle.
Yeah, confused? Just wait.
I said, no problem, I actually said that I thought that was the case but I had been given bottles previously to take back to the room and it was a little confusing.
Not mad, or concerned, we had an alcohol package so it really did not matter either way whether we took the bottle or not.
The staff here are so concerned about customer satisfaction this sent them into a real flap. I kept trying to assure them it was not a problem at all. We are happy to take the glasses back to the room instead and thanked them for their diligence.
We would, of course, obey the rules.
As we went to leave the maitre d brings over a full bottle of unopened wine and said I could take that back to our room and apologises for any inconvenience.
Now I am really confused. But…
Ok. I thank them very much and appreciate the gesture.
The food was not as good as the first time we ate here. I wonder if the staff and ingredients are getting tired. Nothing has been refreshed since we left Seattle. It was still tasty, but not as well cooked. It is still our favourite restaurant on the boat.
Tomorrow we have nearly a full day at sea, we now get to Victoria at 430pm!! Which is much better, we can enjoy it and do a bit more sightseeing.
Too funny that we are visiting Canada three times in this one trip.
Not long until we disembark. Unlike leaving our first cruise, I am happy to move on. I am ready to get off the ship.
Spoilt shitbag, aren’t I.
Haines
Hubbard Glacier
Sitka
Icy Strait Point and At Sea
The Killalea-Walford Travel Blog 