27th – 28th June
We woke to another beautiful day in paradise, it must sound like I am saying the same thing over and over again. But really, the sun was shining – again, the sky was blue – again, the weather was warm – again. I could get used to this.
We also see a lot of Kauai native birds, they are large, and quite noisy. They are called helicopters. It is very rare not to see the sky filled with these birds. The views must be spectacular from the air, but we did not have enough time to book in a tour.
Today we had a fishing trip planned.
We both really enjoy a good day of fishing and the hope that you will catch the big one.
I did some research online and found recommendations for a charter company. I contacted the charter company and immediately got a response. As we were always travelling I had to give Captain Jeff a rundown of all my numbers i.e. we are in Europe so this is my number, I will get a new number when we land in the States, or you can reach me on my New Zealand number.
We agreed I would ring him when I had a USA number.
Which I did! The initial conversation was hilarious. Comments suggesting I was perhaps a spy, with all my contact numbers etc. I simply said I could tell him, but would have to kill him.
Captain Jeff sounded pretty cool.
We had arranged to meet him at the pier by 830am for a 4 hour fishing charter.
Getting on the boat:
- Remove your shoes
- Do not sit there
- Do not stand there
- No mention of life jackets
- No comment on what to do in the event of an emergency
- Nothing
Captain Jeff was appearing to be not so cool.
Anyway, off we went. It was a calm day, thank god, because if this was calm we would hate to see what the sea was like in the rough.
There was a fair about of rocking and rolling going on, waves splashing up onto the deck.
It was a fiberglass boat, and she seemed to cut through the water pretty well.
We had 6 lines in the water and we went in search of fish. Jason did his usual win people over routine, chatting to Captain Jeff, but the responses were few and far between, so he gave up. We sat in the sun and watched the birds.
2.5 hours in, nothing.
Captain Jeff suggested we go closer to land and see if we hit anything. Cool with us.
As we were zipping along I notice one of the lures is bouncing along the top of the water. That’s a big lure I think to myself, and continue to day dream.
Turned out it was a yellow fin tuna bouncing along behind the boat, not a lure. Pay attention Jo. I reeled it in, it was a pretty decent size.
No time for a photo, Captain Jeff grabs the tuna, sticks it in the fish box, and off we go.
Another hour goes by and we start to head back to the pier. Still watching for signs of birds and any other indicators that there were fish about, nothing.
Then BOOM, we got a hit! I jump up from my sun platform aka the engine, and tell Jason it’s his.
Jason says to Captain Jeff, do you want us to reel in the other lines – important to note that when we have fished in other charters they always want you reel in the other lines to avoid tangles, mess, and general chaos.
Apparently not on Captain Jeff’s boat.
Then as quickly as it was on, the fish was gone. Man, did we get a telling off.
“I don’t understand why you guys didn’t start reeling”.
“Waste of a fish”.
“Would have been better on the deck”.
Jason asked don’t you want us to reel in the other lines? Nope.
The rest of the trip back to the pier was a quiet one.
Of all the don’ts we were informed of when boarding the boat, there was no “do’s” regarding catching a fish. Ah well, it’s all an experience.
We get back to the pier and Captain Jeff is on the phone to someone, so we go around in circles for a while as he has his little chit chat.
Eventually we are docked, he cuts up the single, very expensive (if you do price per person divided into number of fish) tuna, and we depart.
Once we are in the car we just look at each other and laugh. Captain Jeff was a grumpy bastard wasn’t he.
It is now around 100pm, and what is better than fresh tuna for lunch? Nothing that we could think of.
As we are heading back towards the apartment we search for a radio station. And found the golden oldies. PLAYING THE BANGLES! Seriously, since when did The Bangles qualify as golden oldies, I feel somewhat insulted by this and change the station.
Tsk, old indeed!
We grab a few salad items from the supermarket and head back to the apartment. The tuna was amazing and beautifully cooked. I may have married Jason for his cooking 😛
Snorkel Time
I had read that there was some lovely snorkelling areas further around the island, only 40 minutes’ drive from where we were staying, so we decided to go and rent some equipment and hit the beach.
Initially the drive was horrendous. Who would have thought that such a little island would have so much traffic! Being the very patient person that I am, AH HEM – not even a little bit patient, I was ready to turn around and go back, when the traffic just disappears.
There were a few police cars around, but nothing that indicated any issues to cause delays.
Tangent Alert: we had noticed a massive discrepancy in the police cars compared to those seen on the main land i.e. New York and New Jersey.
The police cars on Kauai look like those left over from the Blues Brothers movie, you know the one or two cars that did not get crashed, smashed, or blown up. Very quaint.
We continue to head north to Hanalei where we could rent some snorkelling gear. The further north you went the surroundings took on more of a jungle look and feel. It really is quite lovely. Massive trees, swamp lands, creeks, and rivers.
We arrive in Hanalei rent some equipment, get instructions on where to go and where to park, and continue on our way.
The lady behind the counter is quite interesting. Her name is Bobo. She has long grey/white hair in two plaits.
We start talking about where we are from and she said she was in New Zealand last April and went swimming in the beach every day. Swimming out as far as the lighthouse and back. Holy crap, this women is easily in her 60s. She then mentioned that when she went down to Doubtful Sound she got in the water there too, went for a swim. She thought it was amusing that all the locals came out and watched her!
Anyway, she was lovely! But clearly bonkers.
We were told to go to Tunnels Beach, it was only another 5.5 miles along the main road.
When you reach Tunnels Beach parking is at a premium, and there are do not park signs all along the side of the road. Apparently this is an easy fishing area for the Police, they will get you.
We kept going until the main carpark, it meant a bit of a walk back to the snorkelling area, but also meant no parking tickets.
Also, as it was late afternoon we were lucky because most people were already leaving.
We parked up, got our gear and hit the beach and MY GOD it was stunning. The water is perfectly blue, to match the sky, there are Jurassic Park cliffs on one side, and palm tree surrounded beach houses on the other.
The beach itself is a perfect crescent shape, excellent for photos and postcards, the sand is golden, and the water is warm. What is not to love! There are a lot of signs regarding the under tow so we go where it is deemed safe – between the flags people.
The local name for Tunnels Beach is Makua. Lava tubes have formed many underwater caverns and that is why it has been called Tunnels. After the lava tubes there are very, very, very steep drop offs where you can see nothing but water.
Very reminiscent of Finding Nemo, and whilst we were floating on our own, all we could think about when we saw the drop off was “shark bait”! Bloody scary I can tell you. Needless to say we kept to the lava flows and away from the shark pit (there were sharks, I didn’t see any, BUT I have seen Jaws so I know the sharks are there, waiting for the sacrificial girl in a bikini to do something dumb).
The water is not as clear as Rarotonga, but the fish are very cool all the same. We spend an hour bobbing around and enjoying the warm water, before pulling the plug (not literally, cause where would the fish go) and exit the water.
Just opposite the beach and the parking lot is Maniniholo Dry Cave. It looks like a gaping hole in the side of the mountain. Kind of scary and you hope there are no bats, we didn’t see any, but you can explore the cave easily and is fun to explore with children (and husbands). Not sure if there are any bats, but if you look at the ceiling, keep your mouth shut, just in case.
After a long morning fishing, then driving, and then snorkelling, we are getting a little weary.
Plus, Jason had tuna to cook for me – good man 😀
Time to head back to Hanalei, return our gear and head for home.
As we had hoped the traffic was gone, everyone else had already returned to their respective homes, so Jason had a smooth ride back. He is getting the hang of driving on the dark side.
Back at the apartment we have a lovely fresh tuna dinner, drinks on the deck, and a swim in the pool. This life is quite idyllic.
Tomorrow we head to Honolulu, the last stop before we go home.
Time is going way too fast.